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PASSAGE TO PEBAS ON THE AMPIYACU RIVER

Stocking up in the general store in Pebas "As Marianela sorted through a depleted bin of onions, I learned more about the fine points of choosing a good one from her in five minutes than I had learned in the rest of my life combined. While I make exacting observations about the fine points of woven bird ornament, she showed me how to use my eyes and finger tips to assess whether an onion was too dry or had the beginning of a rotten piece near its top that would spread in a day or two."